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your right about the conversion to wet brakes seen some done by the drain hole being blocked and a oil seals on the shaft removed on the diff side ..and different gruffo's on the brake shaft / rod ...some work some are poor sealed and weep like hell .,,,as for fitting air brakes to the back of a...

same side as clutch pedal if it has a cab they'll be a hatch 2 screws on a angle at foot of dash board remove cover and look in onto steering rods then you'll see a square plate held in place with 2 10mm bolts on the plate theres a oiler for oiling the clutch shaft when you remove it you have...

interesting post ??? 81 -161 zetors had syncro gears from 1986 looking in the old workshop parts manual 16045 did have a option of just a 8 speed box with no torque amp but 16145 had 12 forward with torque amp and your semi correct on the fact of they had wider gears on the 161 only it...

you cannot adjust the push rod on the clutch master on a 5211 ..its a fixed pin ...you can adjust them on the clutch cover through access panel on bell housing ..you need 1 open ended 17mm spanner ground down thin to release lock nuts on the adjust nuts ...

back axle right hand side where the brake slave cyln is its stapmped on the outside edge you may need to scrape some paint to see it ..but usally its on the vin plate on the side of the dash near the brake peddles ..

most 7711/45 had front mounted pumps off the crank pully ..worked ok apart from the coupling claws being alloy and wearing out ..can't remember the output of the pumps but seem to think they were 75-80 litres ...never had any problems with oil temp and they didn't have any coolers fitted ...as such

not sure if you mean the clutch fluid or the backend oil ???..but sounds like the clutch pack might be knackered ..ie in bits ...does it grind or jump when it moves ?????.....does the pto still work ??..and have you had a look into the bell house to see if its full of bits of clutch plate...

yes mike is right stick a pressure gauge on to the spool first to see if its the relief valve in the back end...if it reads between 2200 psi and 2800 psi then try the loader spool valve ...should read the same at the lift coupling on the loader spool as the rear spool ..if not then it could be...

its like out else ...90%of all break downs is the result of the nut between the seat and steering wheel ....and the other 10%just bad luck ....

best thing to do with that is from the pump... pipe it to loader first then loader return to the pipe from the pump to the back end ..either that or lift the lid off the back end and set the relief valves up a bit and make sure the control box is ok does it tip trailers ok ??

looks like you have a problem ...!!!!..when you reasembled the pack into the back end did you undo the feed pipes for the clutch and brake and use the tool that blocks the holes to stop the rubber rings from clipping bits out of them as you pushed the pack in ......because a lot of the time when...

if its grinding when you change gear could be a fluid problem ...is the pedal soft or when you press it does it go down a long way before any pressure builds up ..could be the linkage that goes from the slave cyln to the bell houseing getting seized that would make it grind and slip from not...

5245 ...could be the safety switch on the clutch pedal ..or the push button could have welded tips unscrew and clean with a sharp little screw driver check that all the screws tight on both all the switchs inc the ignition switch ...

need more info ...but sounds like the clutch starting to slip ...does it only do it in high gears when on the road or in all gears ???

all of the loaders we fitted to zetors almost all the customers wanted the rear wheels filled with water and 20%antifreeze ...almost every zetor came with a valve to fill tyres with water in the tool kit it looked brass with a 19mm nut and female tread at one end and male on the other with a...

just wondering if any one out there in the UK have come across this before ...last October i was invited to take part in a tractor run in aid of bloke that has had the big c ...he collects for a charity for cancer and has had other fund raising events with old cars and bus's and had no worries...

fork that push's the thrust bearing snapped inside the bell housing ...can be changed without splitting just a bit tiight ...

you can spray /use air guns etc with a zetor air supply no problem almost all zetors run at 7-9 bar of pressure for trailer brakes etc...all you need is a fitting to go in the end of the air tank under the cab and a pipe with a female psl fitting on the end then plug in your air tool and away...

that is one old tractor to have brake pedals like that ..yes your right it is a brake equalizer on the end of the master cyln ...if its still spongie try disconnecting the return springs on the pedals and let them rest against the plungers if they have a lot of travel before coming to rest set...

does it lock up when you pull the hand brake on aswell ..???..if not its a sticky slave cyln or the pivots on the rear axle are nearly seized ..if it locks with the hand brake then its your expanders inside the portal which will be at fault ''rough balls ''lol...take to bits clean and use a...