Zetor 6211 - Coolant Temperature Gauge

eoghan_nevin · Apr 16, 2020

Hi, new here, I have a 6211 that I have been trying to get the temperature gauge working. It is a single wire going out to the sensor. I tested it for continuity back to the gauge and it's fine and connections seem fine. The gauge is getting 12V. I ament sure if it's the gauge or sensor ( could it be the thermostat ) . I grounded the sensor wire with key on and gauge moved from full off to full on ( seen that that means the gauge is fine and it's the sensor - others say it doesn't 100% mean that ) Any help would be appreciated!

diyfarmer · Apr 16, 2020

I have a 6211 that I have been trying to get the temperature gauge working. It is a single wire going out to the sensor. I tested it for continuity back to the gauge and it's fine and connections seem fine. The gauge is getting 12V. I ament sure if it's the gauge or sensor ( could it be the thermostat ) . I grounded the sensor wire with key on and gauge moved from full off to full on!

If the clock shows nothing usually that would be the sensor, but you haven't said whether the gauge moves when the engine is warm. If there is no thermostat in the housing it will not show any high reading and will be at the minimum all the time. When it goes to the max with the key on means an earth.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 16, 2020

I have a 6211 that I have been trying to get the temperature gauge working. It is a single wire going out to the sensor. I tested it for continuity back to the gauge and it's fine and connections seem fine. The gauge is getting 12V. I ament sure if it's the gauge or sensor ( could it be the thermostat ) . I grounded the sensor wire with key on and gauge moved from full off to full on!

Click to expand...

If the clock shows nothing usually that would be the sensor, but you haven't said whether the gauge moves when the engine is warm. If there is no thermostat in the housing it will not show any high reading and will be at the minimum all the time. When it goes to the max with the key on means an earth.

No it doesn't move at all when engine is warmed up. There is a thermostat bit I'm not sure if that is problem or if it's sensor. The gauge goes up to max with key on when I touch sender wire of an good earth ( which I've seen means they gauge is fine ) is that right ?

eoghan_nevin · Apr 16, 2020

Anybody else have any ideas for me ?

hala · Apr 17, 2020

Take a multimeter and messure the sensor resistans.. The sensor is just a variable resistor and the gauge measure the currant. If the gauge works when conected to earth my belive is a sensor interruption. I do not know the value of the resistance but it is a matter of kohm not mohm.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 17, 2020

Take a multimeter and messure the sensor resistans.. The sensor is just a variable resistor and the gauge measure the currant. If the gauge works when conected to earth my belive is a sensor interruption. I do not know the value of the resistance but it is a matter of kohm not mohm.

I have a voltmeter which doesn't allow me to set the level of resistance I want to measure but will that still work. Also any idea of a rough idea of the resistance I should be looking for and the rough difference expected for a cold and warm engine

ixer0 · Apr 17, 2020

Make sure you have the earth wire onto the thermostat housing as it will not earth through the water hoses.
Mike

hala · Apr 17, 2020

The sensor is a NTC type that will say high temp low resistant. I'll measure the value of mine 4340 tomorrow. Try to find out if any currant flows through the sensor by connecting the voltmeter between the sensor and the gauge. Also check so you dont have any bad connection from the gauge and the sensor.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 17, 2020

Make sure you have the earth wire onto the thermostat housing as it will not earth through the water hoses.
Mike

Thanks Mike, you could be onto something there actually. There's only 1 wire on the sensor for the sensor wire that goes to gauge and the sensor is threaded into thermostat housing which is held in place by 3 hoses ( not bolted to any metal piece, so maybe it ain't getting an earth. Doesn't look like a connections has broken off so how does it get it's earth?

Eoghan

eoghan_nevin · Apr 17, 2020

The sensor is a NTC type that will say high temp low resistant. I'll measure the value of mine 4340 tomorrow. Try to find out if any currant flows through the sensor by connecting the voltmeter between the sensor and the gauge. Also check so you dont have any bad connection from the gauge and the sensor.

Thanks that's would be great.

Are you going to you a voltmeters because my fluke voltmeter senses up to 1000 ohms which means it's probably not sensitive enough to tell the difference between cold engine and warm engine resistance values.

How would if test if current flows through it . Set my voltmeter to amps ( current ) and test between sensor and gauge is it ?

Connections are fine as I have tested them. I'm getting 5/6 Volts out at the sensor wire . Is that right ( should it be 12 - seen on some places it should've around 5 going out to sensor )

Thnaks Eoghan

hala · Apr 18, 2020

My temperature sensor 904 ohms at 5 degrees C. Connected to 12V it flows about 15 mA which increases at higher temperature. If you measure the current between the sensor and the meter, a smaller current will flow as the meter has an internal resistance. If there is no current flow, either the sensor or the meter is broken, but if the meter gives full effect when the cable at the sensor is connected to ground directly, it will indicate the sensor.

hala · Apr 18, 2020

Do not know how it is on your model but on 4340 the sensor is located on the thermostat housing and there goes one cable to the sensor and a ground cable to the house itself. Check this ground cable so you have ground to the sensor otherwise no current can flow.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 18, 2020

Do not know how it is on your model but on 4340 the sensor is located on the thermostat housing and there goes one cable to the sensor and a ground cable to the house itself. Check this ground cable so you have ground to the sensor otherwise no current can flow.

Thanks, yeah mine is same , screwed up in to thermostat housing. I have one cable going to gauge but I don't have another connection to po it an earth on it ( maybe it broke ) . Only thing holding it is 3 houses so not connected to any ground I think. I'll check it out and get back to ye.
Thanks

eoghan_nevin · Apr 18, 2020

Ok so tried out a few things. Firstly think the sensor wasn't getting an earth. So put an temporary earth on it.

Took out thermostat housing ( removed 3 houses ). Then took out sensor and checed it - seems fine. Then began to test resistance of sensor . Dipped sensor into tap water ( simulate cold ) and it read 460-500 ohms. Then out it in bear boiling water and read 53 ohms.

Also brought out sensor to tractor and plugged in sender/sensor wire and gave the sensor an earth. Had someone push down key and watch dial. Put sensor into pretty warm water and dial moved up to around 60 degrees !.

So from what I can see it's the sensor and gauge are fine but it's the thermostat that's gone / stuck on open position?

Thanks
Eoghan

eoghan_nevin · Apr 18, 2020

As I think it is Thermostat, is it hard to change out. I know the 4 bolts on housing and separate them and replace gasket when all done but is the thermostat held in or awkward to install ?

Really appreciate all the help

Eoghan

diyfarmer · Apr 18, 2020

As I think it is Thermostat, is it hard to change out. I know the 4 bolts on housing and separate them and replace gasket when all done but is the thermostat held in or awkward to install ?
Eoghan

I was saying to check the thermostat, to take it out of the housing you will have to open the 3 bolts going through housing and might need a screwdriver to get the thermostat up . But take caution opening those 3 bolts as they sit in water and most time they ring off when you try open them.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 18, 2020

I was saying to check the thermostat, to take it out of the housing you will have to open the 3 bolts going through housing and might need a screwdriver to get the thermostat up . But take caution opening those 3 bolts as they sit in water and most time they ring off when you try open them.

How do I check the thermostat when I have it out though ?
Mine has 4 bolts and a gasket between them. Is the thermostat screwed or held in with clips when the housing is opened. Is there a certain way to put them in ?

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

How do I check the thermostat when I have it out though ?
Mine has 4 bolts and a gasket between them. Is the thermostat screwed or held in with clips when the housing is opened. Is there a certain way to put them in ?

Whether yours 4 bolts or 3 I said makes no difference, the same principal applies, the thermostat is in the housing and be careful opening the bolts or they'll ring off. The thermostat is just sitting in but maybe stuck, the sensor end goes down. Maybe able to check it a bucket of boiling water it should pop open. Have look at this picture

eoghan_nevin · Apr 19, 2020

Whether yours 4 bolts or 3 I said makes no difference, the same principal applies, the thermostat is in the housing and be careful opening the bolts or they'll ring off. The thermostat is just sitting in but maybe stuck, the sensor end goes down. Maybe able to check it a bucket of boiling water it should pop open. Have look at this picture

Ok thanks I'm currently trying to source a thermostat and gasket and I'll change it .

Is it possible to check the thermostat while it is in thermostat housing.

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

Is it possible to check the thermostat while it is in thermostat housing.

The two ways you know if it's working is 1) the gauge would move to the last if the thermostat was stuck closed. or 2) the heater in the cab blows hot air when the tractor is warm from work.

Did you have it open in the past?

eoghan_nevin · Apr 19, 2020

The two ways you know if it's working is 1) the gauge would move to the last if the thermostat was stuck closed. or 2) the heater in the cab blows hot air when the tractor is warm from work.

Did you have it open in the past?

No gauge is always on zero ie on the left - so it must be stuck open ( going by previous sensor test discussed there right )? The heat in the cab does blow slightly warm air most of the time . So to me is the thermostat. Would I be right in saying there's a good chance replacing it will make the gauge read temperature again

Thanks

Also regarding the earthing of the thermostat housing. I can't see any tab where a spade connection is made to earth it. Can't see where one has broken off earth. Only placing I can think off is a washer type piece in between housing and sensor , perhaps it broke of there ! How is the housing earthed on yours ?

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

No gauge is always on zero ie on the left - so it must be stuck open ( going by previous sensor test discussed there right )? The heat in the cab does blow slightly warm air most of the time . So to me is the thermostat. Would I be right in saying there's a good chance replacing it will make the gauge read temperature again

Thanks

As I have previously many times, overheating has always been a problem and the easy fix is to remove the thermostat, So if your tractor was red hot after a day mowing but the heater blows lukewarm air into the cab, then the thermostat is wrong.

When open the housing and fit a new thermostat the gauge should go up to 80C and stay around that.

In my HSX if your doing heavy work, the air out of the cab heater would cook you alive if you left it on full.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 19, 2020

As I have previously many times, overheating has always been a problem and the easy fix is to remove the thermostat, So if your tractor was red hot after a day mowing but the heater blows lukewarm air into the cab, then the thermostat is wrong.

When open the housing and fit a new thermostat the gauge should go up to 80C and stay around that.

In my HSX if your doing heavy work, the air out of the cab heater would cook you alive if you left it on full.

Thanks I'll swap out the thermostat so, here's hoping the bolts don't shear.

Any ideas on the earthing of the housing ?

Thanks
Eoghan

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

Thanks I'll swap out the thermostat so, here's hoping the bolts don't shear.

Any ideas on the earthing of the housing ?

Thanks
Eoghan

As far as I know there is no earth wire at the housing, there is 1 wire coming to the sensor, the housing on most vehicles either car or tractor are made of an alloy so the earth is on the back of the clock.

A lot of time I would have changed the sensor if a tractor gauge was showing zero, as many times you would push down the key but the clock hand would not move at all, but the water would warm up when the engine was hot, so if yours is staying only lukewarm it is a sign of thermostat not functioning properly

eoghan_nevin · Apr 19, 2020

A lot of time I would have changed the sensor if a tractor gauge was showing zero, as many times you would push down the key but the clock hand would not move at all, but the water would warm up when the engine was hot, so if yours is staying only lukewarm it is a sign of thermostat not functioning properly

When I push down key the dial moves ever so much but still doesn't even read the lowest notch on dial and doesn't move at all when tractor is going and warming up

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

When I push down key the dial moves ever so much but still doesn't even read the lowest notch on dial and doesn't move at all when tractor is going and warming up

Yes but you'd got two different things going on at the same time. If the sensor is wrong the hand will say zero all the time, but you say that the cab heater is only getting lukewarm then that's a different problem. If you think it's the sensor was wrong the cab heater would still have you toasty after a while.

eoghan_nevin · Apr 19, 2020

Yes but you'd got two different things going on at the same time. If the sensor is wrong the hand will say zero all the time, but you say that the cab heater is only getting lukewarm then that's a different problem. If you think it's the sensor was wrong the cab heater would still have you toasty after a while.

Yeah but I tested sensor ( detailed this in a previous message ) which seems fine. That leads me to say it's the thermostat

diyfarmer · Apr 19, 2020

Yeah but I tested sensor ( detailed this in a previous message ) which seems fine. That leads me to say it's the thermostat

Well sure your grand so. Work away

eoghan_nevin · Apr 20, 2020

Well sure your grand so. Work away

Thanks for the help. Ill hopefully get a chance to put in the thermostat this week.

hala · Apr 20, 2020

Even if the thermostat is stucked in open position the gauge will move a bit after running the tractor for a while and the engine feels warm. This of cause if the meter and sensor works.

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