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question Water in tires

B

big_orn

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Big Orn
What do ya'll think the pro's/cons are in putting water in the back tires?
 
I heard of this being done to add ballast (weight) to aid traction but have never done it myself.

I imagine it would be difficult enough to get the water in

Tom

 
A friend of mine has an apparatus that puts the water in! He said he would fill up both my back tires for nothing. I do have that heavy front end loader that makes the rear end jump a little when fully loaded. I just have never talked to anyone that has done this on a Zetor. As a matter of fact I have never owned a Zetor before nor a tractor that has a final drive like the Zetor has. I would really like that extra weight and traction if it didn't adversly affect the final drive.
And like I told Tony - It is good to chat with someone from Ireland, my ancesters moved to the USA from Ireland in 1797. I have always had this fascination for that beautiful land.
 
Big Orn,

Re Ireland, do you ever come to visit?

There are lots of Zetor's in Ireland. 25 years ago practically all the silage in Ireland was cut using Zetor Crystal's. More competition today - mergers and acquisitons - Valtra is doing well where I live. Have wiped MF out and Zetor too.

Which part of Ireland did your ancestors come from?

Tom
 
"...that heavy front end loader that makes the rear end jump a little when fully loaded".

Assuming your "box blade" is a transport box that is mounted on the three point linkage - could you not load this up with sand/gravel to counter the weight of the front loader? That would be easier than filling the tires with water.


 
30 years ago, over here every front loader was sold with an empty steel box to put in the 3p hitch, which could be filled with concrete.

What is also done over here, i have seen 200 liter oil barrels filled with concrete. They simply stick a long pin through it before filling with concrete, so this pin (for 3ph hookup) is kind of "casted into" the block of concrete.
 
Tom - There has been much argument over where they came from but it is believed we came from Connacht or Connaught County perhaps around Galway or Loughrea. We were told that he had left a fugitve from the law. How bad it was or what he had done was never known. The only real tracks we could follow were back to Virginia in the USA where one record said, "...he is believed to have left western Ireland in 1797 after a brush with the law..." Other sources give vague descriptions of what town he my have come from, that he was hired to row a ship that had ran out of food halfway (gotten lost) and they had to eat rats!! Our surname (Eaves) however, was determined to have originated in Europe and the Isle of Man. It has gotten to be so confusing we have had to stop digging because of all the conflicting evidence.
And as far as the box blade goes - it does not hold soil, only moves it. But, I will try the cast concrete idea if nothing else works AND if it will not hurt the 3 point hookup.
Thanks Tom and Renze
 
we just hang on a transportbox filled with heavy material on
the 3 point hitch...
that always keeps him down verry well !
 
@zetordude

In the U.S, they dont use 3p lift transport boxes as we in wetern Europe. In Europe, every hobby farmer buys a tractor, with a transport box, a PC mower, an old hay tedder, and an Acrobat rake. In America, everyone buys a tractor, with a loader, a so-called "bush hog" (rough grass, bush cutter) and a scraper box. This scraper box is like, what in Dutch is called "kilverbak" but then in 3p lift mounting. They arent designed for carrying dirt, just dragging. Kinda like our transport boxes, but with reversed opening, and no bottom sheet.

take a look at this scraper box, at billstractor.com:



Sorry, but i think it's a matter of weeks before i have teared this thing apart... just look at the thin (cat.1) 3p hitch pins...
 
Renze - weeks - days or hours more like!. That looks REAL flimsy!
 
That's hobby stuff: The American term for hobbyists is Weekend Warriors..

Yes, my home made machinery can push off trees, something different than this...
 
Yea - as a matter of fact I hooked a stump (accidently) with my box blade and had it all warped out of shape before my 5211 even noticed it. Man, that 5211 is a hoss! Saturday I hired a guy with a dozer to come over and move a couple of piles of stumps for me (I haven't got a rake blade yet). As he was pushing the large stumps out I was loading them into my bucket (two at a time) and moving them to another location. He motioned me down and asked just what kind of tractor I had that could pick up and walk off with that much weight. He was impressed and I was swelled with pride.
 
I don't think it should be a problem adding water to your rear tires. It would give your tractor some cheap weights.I'd probably fill them 1/2 to 3/4 full. Wouldn't hurt to add some antifreeze while you are doing it. Normally winters aren't bad in Texas, but have seen rear tires with water freeze before.
 
That's true - winter before last and the one before that - remember the solid freeze-over we had in NE Texas. I will feel better about it when I get that manual and find out just how much the 5211 weighs. It is heavy - that's for sure - without water in the tires.
 
Yes: the basic rule is no more than 3/4 filled: More could cause trouble, because the tires dont have an air buffer to absorb shocks, which could give a hars ride, and extreme peak forces to your tires.

I agree, if i did that, i would add anti-freeze no matter what, frost damage could be expensive, two new rear tires are expensive....

A 5211 basic weight is 2800 kg... not extreme.

Our 5245 weighs 3080 kg... Enough to pull off oaks with a diameter of 35 cm....N
 
If my math is right that's about 6200 pounds plus the 1100 pound loader WOW! No wonder I can move alot of dirt, roots, rocks and no wonder my Ford F-350 Super Duty grunts going up hil with it loaded on a 5100 pound trailer. That's 12,400 pounds of weight I'm pulling. OKAY - I will get water (3/4 full) in the tires now that I know the tractor has enough wherewithall to handle it. Thanks, guys!
 
I have moved about 100 m3 of dirt last year: in time of foor and mouth disease, we were not allowed to move hogs. We had to store them all, in the machine barn and the narrow stripe of land inbetween the barns. I dug out 60 cm of mud and shit, replaced it by 50 cm of clean earth dug up in the forest, all with a 2 meter wide, 1.25 m3 earth scoop.

I checked the final drive oil, clean as new. But, when you are working hard, letting the engine die down in low range reverse, use the diff lock or your satelite carrier shaft in the differential will wear a little hard.... I will check my diff when i have time....

Those rear ends are unbreakable in work... You have to use mean tricks to snap them, as long as you use them properly (no smashing into a big pile of sand in high gear), it doesn't matter how heavy the load. Just use the diff lock.
 
I'm glad you brought up the diff lok, Renze, I was wondering about that. I haven't used it faithfully, but will now. It looks like I will be going on travel to Alabama for a week or so starting tomorrow so I might be out of pocket (depends on if they have a computer in the motel).
 
....After having noticed the quite increase of rear axle play, i am thinking of changeing the floor pedal to a lever that is pulled over it's dead point: so i wont need to continously press it with my right foot that's getting sore after a day of mud-ploughing...
 
Humm- After you do that mod, think you could post some pics? Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of that!
 
Yes, but dont use it in corners: My father used to have a Deutz D15, a one cylinder 15 hp, in the late sixties. His halfaxles snapped two times when he forgot to disengage the diff lock in a corner... Well i dont see the 70mm halfaxles break so soon on the 5245...
 
All the tyre co`s around he have the equipment to fill wheels with water . You must put something in to stop them freezing .

It makes a big difference for traction on a loader tractor

What do you put in to stop em freezing ?

nothing,the tractor is in a shed at night and it was minus 15c this year and they never froze.you only fill 3/4 with water so if they did freeze there is room to expand.
Click to expand...
i would not risk it
 
when i used a 2wd crystal with front loader on silage clamps i used a cut down metal crop sprayer tank with about 75 gallons of rubble and concrete, i added the quick hitch off a massey reversable plough to make hitching up easier, it also moved the weight a bit further back as well.
one time i was on a clamp of long chop stuff from a forage wagon when the farmers son turned up with a borrowed 4wd muir hill to do a bit of rolling... he had more wheel spin getting up on top than i did.... funny thing was we actually won a cup for the quality of the silage from the innoculant suppliers... quite suprised all the experts who said you had to have sort precision chop to make good silage... the fahr forage wagon with a 55hp leyland on the front only chopped to about 4 inches.
 

Just goes to show !
 
I live in Vermont, USA and every tractor around here has their tires "loaded". It's standard practice. The loading fluid is a combination of water and some kind of salt (we all call it chloride) to lower the freeze point down to near zero F.


Nope, not sodium chloride. It's calcium chloride.
 
We have used water in the tyres in the past. Jack the tractor so the tyre is just on the ground and fill to level with the top of the metal centre. for antifreese calcium chloride powder dissolved in water used to be used, but nowadays just put a couple of 5 ltr cans of engine antifreeze in the water. the attachment to fill tyres used to come in the tool kit of Zetors. these screw onto the valve when the whole core is removed and have a small bleed pipe to let out the air. if you havent got one then use a hosepipe and periodically let out the air as you fill it.
 
Hi guys.
Back in the 60's I drove a fordson major with a 3 furrow hydraulic pough reclaiming rough steep fields. It entailed one way ploughing, and on the return trip the front of the tractor would bounce, (so much that independant brakes were used to control the steering ) which caused the plough to bounce on the back.
The tyres had been balasted with water, too much water, consequently the tyre casing failed through the walls. when the ploughs weight suddenly brought pressure on the tyres, an expensive time!
The extra weight on the axle had a dramatic affect on braking on the steep fields, the tread really dug in, instead of sliding.
Used salt in the water in those days, but have ordinary anti freeze in the zetor tyres now.
A sure but slow way to fill the tyres , is to turn the wheel until the valve is position at the top of the wheel and connect to a container with a hose, I use a domestic cold water tank which I can top up, positioned above the tractor wheel and let gravity do its work. Depending on the amount of water used, you may have to disconnect occassionaly to release air pressure.
Hope you find this usefull,
Regards,
Matt

 
What do ya'll think the pro's/cons are in putting water in the back tires?
Click to expand...
best put liquid salt in with water keeps it from freezing, our tyre service engineers have a machine to pump water and sodium sulphate ito the tyre ,leting air out the same time ,you can get 800 lbs in each 14x28 rear wheel ,right where its needed

What do you put in to stop em freezing ?
Click to expand...
nothing,the tractor is in a shed at night and it was minus 15c this year and they never froze.you only fill 3/4 with water so if they did freeze there is room to expand.
Click to expand...
i would not risk it
Click to expand...
Ive seen tyres freeze in less than 7degrees below and the lump of ice slidind around and sending you on all sorts of journeys not needed,like running away even 4x4 tractors
 
Always put some sort of anti freeze in unless you live in the tropics, I have seen a tube totally ruined by quite a slight frost.
 
all of the loaders we fitted to zetors almost all the customers wanted the rear wheels filled with water and 20%antifreeze ...almost every zetor came with a valve to fill tyres with water in the tool kit it looked brass with a 19mm nut and female tread at one end and male on the other with a very small brass pipe soldered into it which had a plastic pipe on it which went into the tube via the valve then you just threaded the female end into where the valve goes and put a half inch hose onto the other and set it off filling ..we found if you let it fill till the air stops coming out of the little pipe that the tyre was 98% full ..with only a small space at the top for air ..if you only put 3/4 fill in them when you went down hill it had a sloshing motion like what tankers do when you brake so fuller the better just add more antifreeze if its really cold where you are
 
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