Hello Guest, you do not yet have the necessary rights to see the contents of our FAQ articles. Register in our forum, briefly introduce yourself and your Zetor in words and pictures and actively participate in discussions in the forum, then you will automatically receive access to the specialist articles in the FAQ.
a man near me had an ursus type crystal,drove it around for 6months with pto going all the time he used to turn off engine then on pto shaft start tractor &off he go mowing.do u want some tips before open the pack or r u ok ?theres 1 simple other thing to try first.
It sounds like a problem in the PTO pack. This assembly will pull out complete out of the rear of the diff housing. It's probably broken the belleville washer or circlip.
To test PTO pressures ; at the back of the tractor on the rh side there are 2 pipes going into the rear end casing level with the PTO. put a guage on either one and the pressure should be 175 PSI at 1500 rpm. If the one you've put the gauge on doesn't show anything, move the PTO engaging lever under the steering wheel, either one or the other should have pressure. Having said that, if the PTO works and delivers full power then its unlikely to be pump problem, cuff seal or shaft rings, I would check the 3 very long O rings around the PTO Power pack and the small pistons that act as a brake. If these are OK then you will have to dismantle the pack. Not a difficult job. Borrow the largest internal circlip pliers you can or be prepared to ruin the odd screwdriver !
this may sound silly but i saw it happen before so its worth alook,check that the pto lever is fully off,while the lever on dash has big movement on top of tranny movement is very small.the tractor i worked on before the linkage between cab&backend was not going all way off,eventhough it felt like there was nothing left,itook the floor panel off,lift off the linkage&turned with a vicegrips the control,the pto stopped straightaway.the advice dave p is given,sounds better than mine,the repair job on a pto pack may be over your head,any time i did ones i took out the pack&brought the whole pto pack to a zetor garage &let them recon it only took 1 day.before u remove the pack get the backend up as high as u can saves having to remove all the oil.
My 3320 has the same problem. I'm not sure if the 3320 has a "PTO Pack" because I'm do not know what a "PTO Pack" is.
I've changed the broken circlip at the PTO exit but the problem persists. I even took off the rocker box and the transmission top plate but still can't determine the problem.
I guess my next move is to take off the shifter cover and push the PTO/hydraulic shifter manually as far forward as it will go and see if this gives me a correct diagnosis.
Def going to try the vice grips first, I often find I over complicate a repair, and hopefuly this is one of those times. The local scrap yard has 3 complete Crystals / ursus sitting and told me I can take what I want ,as the export market has went dead, so I may take a PTO pack, hydraulic pump and complete hydraulic top (which may help with my poor position control problem), but none of them have assistor rams and my left lift arm is lose on the splines, Just hope all the wear is on the shaft and not the arm.
Anything else spring to mind I should recover for the parts store?
Unfortunatly it is not the lever.
I slacked the pipes at the back and there is oil flow on each of them individualy as you move the lever, not a large flow though.
I will swap PTO pack when I get manual and time to go to scrap yard.
Where is torque pump, I may take one of those also if it's easy to get at.
Just another point. Noticed the oil seemed thick coming out those pipes on the side, and thought the drive seems to drag the tractor to a stop quicker than I expected even when I test drove it, but it's a good 15 years since I last owned a 12045. Just struck me after reading post on lubes some of the cold country boys are using, could someone have used heavy gear oil in the backend and be causing some of these probs.
the old man that used to work on my father tractors ,always said to use heavy oil in the backend to stop leaks in seals or if it had poor pumps orpoor hyd lift what he ment keep heavy oil in may stop turning as watery as the right stuff
Had the pto pack out today, could see nothing wrong. took it to the dealer, we dismantled it, checked all ports, discs brakes, the lot, could see nothing wrong. As a precaution we put one less plate in when reassembling, but not convinced it will make any difference. Wont find out for a day or two as I have the top housing off also.
When you took it apart did you press the shaft out of the front housing ? this is often missed, there are 2 rings with the ends hooked together which look like piston rings inside and they have been known to break.
This is bugging me now.
All re-built. PTO still not stopping. If I stop it with a fence post it stays stopped. If I put it in nuetral via lever under the seat, stops and brake is so strong I can not turn shaft. when engine is stopped I can turn shaft easly.
This leads me to think that when I dissengage at steering wheel, brake is being applied, clutch pack is not fully dissengaging.
Could oil not be released from pack? But PTO turns when starting engine from cold?
I'm confused, and this aint just impractical, it's a saftey issue also.
its like your tractors torque pumps got a problem,as i said here before you can go around for upto 6months with the pto going &still be fine on the splitter.it sounds so like the 8045 i had,the pto was going all the time i tried useing a stake too,then i was on the road driving along & there was a big jerk&hi/lo was gone also you say about ther pto turning when starting,this happens to all older independent zetors,if you had something light on (hayturner)it would fly around for awhile after starting.
can the torque pump be accessed through the inspection plate on the right side of gearbox. the manual i bought says it can (a cd version) but the threads on this site say the tractor needs split at gearbox.
i can`t answer you that, the tractors i did work on in the past were all split in front of gearbox, the pump is on the bell housing.the old man that worked on my fathers tractors worked on all types of zetors&ursus,since the 1970`s,he never tried doing one for us any other way.
looks like you have a problem ...!!!!..when you reasembled the pack into the back end did you undo the feed pipes for the clutch and brake and use the tool that blocks the holes to stop the rubber rings from clipping bits out of them as you pushed the pack in ......because a lot of the time when i had problems with packs its the rings being damaged as you insert the pack letting oil bleed back into the backend ...the only real way of testing the presure is to us a tee and put between the back end and the pipe and test one at a time ...if the pressure drops then its leaking ..
No I didn't disconect or use a special tool, but the brake was not working before I disassembled and rings were perfect on inspection, so I think the problem lies somwhere else, probably the pump. I put the floors back in today and am going to hook up the hedgecutter and see if it works when warm.