When I drive my Zetor 4340, pressure slowly builds up in the brake circuit and after a while I have full brake and the play in the pedals has disappeared. If I open the rear air nipples and a little oil flows out, the whole system is reset. Is this a common fault and where should I look for the fault?
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question Brake goes stuck on its own over time - Zetor 4340
- Thread starter Tisselskog
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1,224
- Location
- Wiedemar, Germany
- Dealer:
- Zetor parts
- First name
- Joachim
- Machinery:
- Zetor 2011, Zetor 5011, Zetor 7340 Economic, and also a Trabant and Wartburg
What brake fluid are you using? The 4340 should actually be compatible with DOT 4, but I would still stick with DOT 3 because DOT 3 is gentler on the rubber parts, especially if it's still NBR rubber.
- First, check the brake pedal play; it should be around 2-4 mm, especially when the bike is warm. If you have an air brake system, there may be other things to consider.
- Even if everything is OK, one or more of the brake hoses (not the steel lines) could have swollen or contracted internally, which can be caused by some DOT 4 brake fluids over time.
- First, check the brake pedal play; it should be around 2-4 mm, especially when the bike is warm. If you have an air brake system, there may be other things to consider.
- Even if everything is OK, one or more of the brake hoses (not the steel lines) could have swollen or contracted internally, which can be caused by some DOT 4 brake fluids over time.
I am using DOT 4 but will after this problem use DOT 3. Is this a common fault. I will replace everything from the pedals to the slave-cylinders as I replaced them som years ago.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2012
- Messages
- 1,224
- Location
- Wiedemar, Germany
- Dealer:
- Zetor parts
- First name
- Joachim
- Machinery:
- Zetor 2011, Zetor 5011, Zetor 7340 Economic, and also a Trabant and Wartburg
As I said, if DOT 4 has been in there for a while, you often can't avoid replacing at least the rubber hoses.
And yes - that's not uncommon, because on the one hand, people often don't read the manual , and on the other hand, they often listen to workshops when they say, "Here, use DOT 4, we use that for all tractors..."
And don't forget to apply plenty of "brake cylinder paste" (from ATE eg) to the cylinders under their dust caps; this is the only way to keep rust away from the brake cylinders for a very long time.
And please don't confuse this with "brake paste" (usually a ceramic paste) or "copper paste" - they're different things.
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